Open a drawer in almost any Nigerian home and you will probably find a bottle of hair oil. Castor, olive, coconut, shea, argan: oils have been part of hair care for generations, and they are central to many natural hair routines. But there is also a lot of confusion about what oils can and cannot do. Do they make hair grow? Do they moisturize? Where should you put them?
This guide explains what hair oils really do, how to use them on different hair types, and which products at Reginah are worth considering.
What hair oils actually do
Most hair oils do not add moisture on their own, because they are not water. What they do well is seal. Hair needs water to feel soft and flexible. Oil applied over water or a water-based product slows evaporation and helps keep moisture in. Oils can also add shine, reduce frizz, protect the ends and make detangling easier.
This is why many natural hair methods layer products: water or leave-in conditioner first, then oil or cream to lock it in. Our natural hair wash day routine shows where oil fits.
Do hair oils make hair grow?
Be cautious with growth claims. Hair grows from the follicle under the scalp, and oils applied to the strands do not change how fast that happens. What oils can do is reduce breakage and keep the hair you already have, which makes length easier to retain. A gentle scalp massage may feel good and support a healthy-feeling scalp, but there is little reliable evidence that any oil, including castor oil, speeds growth.
If you notice thinning, patches or sudden shedding, see a dermatologist. Hair loss has many causes, some treatable, and the American Academy of Dermatology advises seeing a board-certified dermatologist for any change in texture or appearance of hair, including slight thinning, because early diagnosis improves treatment.
Common hair oils
Castor oil and Jamaican black castor oil
Castor oil is thick and sticky, which makes it good for sealing and for adding shine. Jamaican black castor oil is made from roasted beans and has a darker colour and a distinct smell. Because it is heavy, a little goes a long way. It is often used on ends, edges and braids.
Sunny Isle Replenish & Rejuvenate Lavender Jamaican Black Castor Oil 8FL. oz Buy now
An 8oz Jamaican black castor oil infused with lavender, listed as promoting hair growth, soothing the scalp and providing an aromatherapy experience. Treat the growth claim with caution and think of it mainly as a sealing and conditioning oil.
Olive oil
Olive oil is a medium-weight oil often used for deep conditioning and sealing. It suits thick, dry or coarse hair.
Mega Care Olive Oil Hair Oil 45ml Buy now
A 45ml hair oil with pure olive oil and vitamin E, listed as helping repair split ends, lock in moisture and protect hair from the environment.
Shea butter and shea oil
Shea is rich in fatty acids and is common in West African hair care. It works well on dry, coily hair as a sealant.
Mega Care Raw Shea Butter Oil Hair Oil 45ml Buy now
A 45ml hair oil with raw shea butter, listed as sealing in moisture, softening texture and preventing breakage in dry or curly hair.
Argan and lightweight finishing oils
Argan oil is lighter and is often used for shine and frizz control. Lightweight “dry” oils are useful on fine hair or for finishing styles without a greasy feel.
Natural Essentials Healing Dry Oil for Dry Damaged Hair – 1.5oz/45ml Buy now
A 45ml lightweight dry hair oil, listed as adding moisture, softness and shine to dry, damaged hair without a greasy feel.
Pantene Truly Natural Hair Shine Serum With Argan Oil – 1.7oz/50ml Buy now
A 50ml shine serum with argan and jojoba oils, listed as taming frizz and polishing natural and textured hair.
Browse the full hair oil, spray and cream range and hair treatments to compare weights and scents.
How to use hair oil
As a sealant
- Wash and condition hair.
- While hair is still damp, apply a water-based leave-in conditioner.
- Seal with a small amount of oil, working from ends upward.
- Style as usual.
As a pre-poo
Apply oil to dry hair 30 minutes to a few hours before shampooing. This can reduce the stripping effect of shampoo and make detangling easier. It works well for dry, coily hair. Wash it out thoroughly.
For hot oil treatments
Warm the oil gently, for example by standing the bottle in a bowl of hot water, test it on your wrist, apply to hair, cover with a cap and leave for 20 to 30 minutes. The AAD suggests a hot oil treatment about twice a month can add moisture and elasticity for Black hair. Our guide to deep conditioning at home covers this in more detail.
As a finishing oil
Rub one or two drops between your palms and smooth over dry ends and flyaways. Use less on fine hair.
On the scalp
Use scalp oil sparingly. Heavy oils on a flaky or oily scalp can build up and may worsen dandruff in some people. See our guide to treating dandruff before oiling an itchy scalp.
Choosing an oil for your hair
| Hair type | Suitable oils | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Fine, low porosity | Argan, jojoba, lightweight dry oils | Use tiny amounts; heavy oils weigh hair down |
| Thick, coily, dry | Shea, castor, olive | Seal over water or leave-in |
| Damaged, split ends | Olive, shea, argan | Focus on the ends |
| Oily scalp | Lightweight oils on lengths only | Avoid heavy oils at the root |
Mistakes to avoid
- Using too much. Hair becomes greasy and weighed down.
- Applying oil to dry, thirsty hair only. It will not hydrate. Add water or a leave-in first.
- Heavy oils on the scalp every day. This can lead to buildup.
- Heating oils too hot. Test the temperature on your wrist.
- Expecting growth. Focus on length retention instead.
- Ignoring allergies. Patch test new oils and essential oil blends first.
- Skipping wash day. Product buildup dries hair. The AAD recommends washing Black hair every week or two to prevent buildup.
Protecting hair from breakage
Oil is only one piece. Gentle detangling, avoiding tight styles, trimming split ends and using conditioner every wash matter more. Our guides to reducing hair breakage and laying edges safely cover the habits that protect your hairline and ends.
Hair oils and the harmattan
In the dry season, hair loses moisture quickly, and oils become even more useful as sealants. Combine them with deep conditioning and satin or silk protection at night. See our harmattan skincare tips for ways to protect skin too.
When to see a dermatologist
See a dermatologist if you have patches of hair loss, a painful, itchy or flaky scalp that does not settle, a receding hairline, or sudden thinning. Do not rely on oils alone for hair loss.
Frequently asked questions
Which oil is best for hair growth?
No oil has been proven to speed up hair growth. Castor, olive and argan oils can reduce breakage and improve shine, helping you retain length.
Can I put oil on my hair every day?
You can use a small amount on ends daily if your hair needs it, but daily heavy oiling of the scalp can cause buildup.
Should I oil wet or dry hair?
For sealing, oil damp hair after a water-based product. For pre-poo, apply to dry hair.
Does castor oil darken or thicken hair?
Castor oil coats strands and can make hair look fuller and shinier, but it does not change the follicle.
Can oils replace conditioner?
No. Conditioners smooth the cuticle and add moisture and proteins, while oils mainly seal and add shine.
Final thoughts
Hair oils are excellent sealants, but they are not magic growth potions. Choose a weight that suits your hair, apply to damp hair after a leave-in, use sparingly and keep other habits healthy.
Ready to pick an oil? Explore Reginah’s hair oil, spray and cream and hair treatments collections.
