Hair that snaps when you comb it, split ends that travel up the strand, and length that never seems to increase: breakage is one of the most common hair complaints. Many people think their hair “won’t grow”, when in fact it is growing but breaking off as fast as it grows. Fixing breakage is therefore less about growth products and more about protecting the hair you have.
This guide explains the main causes of breakage, the habits dermatologists recommend, and the conditioners and treatments at Reginah that can support a gentler routine.
Why hair breaks
Hair is weakest at the ends, which are the oldest part of the strand. Natural and coily textures are also more prone to dryness because scalp oils travel down tightly curled strands less easily. Breakage usually comes from a combination of:
- Dryness. Hair without enough moisture loses elasticity and snaps.
- Rough handling. Combing dry, tangled hair, towel-rubbing or pulling too hard.
- Heat. Pressing combs, flat irons and blow dryers on high heat.
- Chemical processing. Relaxers, bleach and colour weaken the strand.
- Tight styles. Tension at the hairline and along braids can break hairs and in some cases cause permanent loss.
- Friction. Cotton pillowcases, scarves and rough clothing.
What dermatologists advise
The American Academy of Dermatology lists several hair habits that damage hair:
- Rub shampoo into the scalp only and let the rinse run through the lengths.
- Use conditioner after every shampoo.
- Wrap hair in a towel to absorb water and then let it air dry, instead of rubbing.
- Comb textured or tightly curled hair while it is damp, with a wide-tooth comb.
- Use heat tools on the lowest setting and limit them to about once a week or less.
- Avoid pulling hair into tight ponytails, buns and cornrows.
- Space out relaxer and colour touch-ups, and do one chemical service at a time.
- Brush only to style: it notes that hair never needs 100 brush strokes a day.
For Black hair, the AAD’s everyday care tips include washing every week or two to prevent product build-up, conditioning at every wash and coating the ends, using a heat protectant on wet hair before styling, and a hot oil treatment about twice a month.
Step one: deep condition regularly
Deep conditioners and masks are richer than regular conditioners and sit on the hair longer. They can improve softness, elasticity and manageability, so hair is less likely to snap. Our guide to deep conditioning natural hair at home explains the method and timing.
Original Hair Mayonnaise Deep Conditioner 426g Buy now
A 426g intensive deep conditioner with egg protein and olive oil, listed as repairing, strengthening and moisturizing weak or damaged hair.
Originals Olive & Shea Deep Conditioner 426g Buy now
A 426g deep conditioner with olive oil and shea butter, listed as softening, moisturizing and repairing very dry or textured hair.
Olori Damage Be Gone 3-in-1 Multi Conditioner 500ml Buy now
A 500ml 3-in-1 multi-conditioner that can be used as a rinse-out, deep treatment or leave-in, listed as repairing damage and providing moisture for all hair types.
Browse more in our conditioners collection.
Step two: add treatments for dry, brittle hair
Treatments sit between a conditioner and an oil, and are useful when hair needs extra help.
Kuza 100% Indian Hemp Hair & Scalp Treatment 226g Buy now
A 226g hair and scalp treatment with Indian hemp and natural oils, listed as moisturizing, adding shine and helping prevent breakage.
Queen Helene Cholesterol Hot Oil Treatment 3 Resealable Tubes each 30ml Buy now
A three-pack of 30ml cholesterol hot oil treatments, listed as repairing, moisturizing and strengthening damaged or over-processed hair.
Use a protein-rich treatment sparingly, because too much protein can make some hair feel stiff. If your hair feels hard and brittle after a protein treatment, switch to a moisturizing deep conditioner. If it feels limp and overly stretchy, it may need more protein. Balance is the aim.
Explore the full hair treatments range.
Step three: seal in moisture
After washing and conditioning, apply a leave-in conditioner or cream, then seal with oil or butter on damp hair. Our guide to hair oils explains which oils suit which hair types, and our wash day routine shows the full order of steps.
Step four: handle hair gently
- Detangle with care. Start from the ends and work up. Use a wide-tooth comb or fingers on damp, conditioned hair.
- Avoid dry combing. Dry textured hair is fragile.
- Section your hair so you are not fighting tangles.
- Use satin or silk pillowcases, bonnets or scarves at night.
- Trim split ends every few months or when you see them. Splits do not repair themselves; they travel up the strand.
Step five: be careful with styles and chemicals
- Keep styles loose. The AAD says that if a hairstyle feels painful, it is too tight. Tension at the hairline can cause traction alopecia, which may become permanent if it continues. Our guide to laying edges safely explains how to protect your hairline.
- Rotate styles. Give your hair breaks between braids, weaves and wigs. The AAD suggests wearing weaves and extensions for two to three months at most.
- Space out chemical services. Do one chemical service at a time. If you colour at home, follow our guide to dyeing hair safely.
- Use heat protectant and keep heat low and infrequent.
- Protect from the sun and salt water with a leave-in or a hat.
Scalp health matters too
A flaky, itchy scalp encourages scratching and can interfere with healthy growth. If you have dandruff, treat it using our guide to how to treat dandruff, being careful not to dry out your lengths.
A simple anti-breakage routine
| Frequency | Step |
|---|---|
| Each wash (weekly to fortnightly) | Shampoo scalp, condition lengths, detangle gently |
| Every wash | Leave-in plus a light oil or cream to seal |
| Every 1-2 weeks | Deep condition for 20-30 minutes |
| Twice a month | Hot oil treatment |
| Nightly | Satin bonnet or pillowcase |
| Every 8-12 weeks | Trim ends if needed |
When to see a dermatologist
See a dermatologist if breakage is accompanied by bald patches, a receding hairline, scalp pain, scaling, redness or sudden shedding. Early diagnosis improves results, particularly for traction alopecia and other conditions common in Black women. Do not wait for hair to grow back on its own if the scalp looks shiny or scarred.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my hair break even though I moisturize?
You may be moisturizing but not sealing, handling hair roughly, using too much heat, or needing a protein balance. Look at the whole routine rather than one product.
How often should I deep condition?
Many people do well weekly or every two weeks. Dry or damaged hair may benefit from more frequent deep conditioning, and the AAD suggests hot oil about twice a month.
Do protective styles prevent breakage?
They can, if they are loose, installed gently and removed on time. Tight styles do the opposite and can cause lasting damage.
Can breakage be reversed?
Broken strands cannot be repaired, but you can stop further damage, strengthen new growth and trim the damaged ends.
Should I use protein treatments?
Occasionally, particularly if hair is overly soft and stretchy. Overuse can cause stiffness. Alternate with moisture-rich treatments.
Final thoughts
Healthy length is built by keeping the hair you grow. Deep condition, detangle gently, seal in moisture, limit heat and tension, trim when needed and see a dermatologist if you notice thinning.
Ready to strengthen your hair? Explore Reginah’s conditioners and hair treatments and choose one product to start with.
