White flakes on your shoulders, an itchy scalp and a constant urge to scratch: dandruff is one of the most common scalp complaints, and it can be embarrassing. It is not caused by poor hygiene, and it is usually easy to manage once you know what is going on and use the right shampoo correctly.
If you have natural or coily hair, the advice is a little different, because frequent washing can dry out your strands. This guide explains what causes dandruff, which ingredients to look for, how often to use anti-dandruff shampoo on different hair types, and which products at Reginah are worth considering.
What is dandruff?
Dandruff is flaking of the scalp, often with itching. In most people it is linked to an overgrowth of a yeast that lives naturally on the scalp, an oily scalp and individual sensitivity to it. Dry skin, irritation from hair products and not washing often enough can also play a role. A more inflamed form with redness and greasy scales is called seborrheic dermatitis.
It helps to tell dandruff apart from a simply dry scalp. Dandruff flakes are often larger, oily or yellowish, while dry scalp flakes are smaller and dry, and skin elsewhere may also be dry. Persistent flaking that doesn’t respond to shampoo can be eczema, psoriasis or a fungal infection, which need a different treatment.
What the American Academy of Dermatology advises
The AAD recommends looking for a shampoo with one of these active ingredients: zinc pyrithione, salicylic acid, selenium sulfide, ketoconazole or coal tar. It adds that coal tar can increase scalp sun sensitivity.
Its guidance on how to use them is helpful:
- Lather the shampoo onto your scalp, and leave it on for a few minutes if the directions say so. Some need 5 to 10 minutes before rinsing.
- Fine, straight or oily hair: use the dandruff shampoo about twice a week.
- Coarse, curly or coily hair: use it about once a week, if tolerated, and apply it only to the scalp to avoid drying out the hair.
- If one shampoo does not work, try rotating between shampoos with different active ingredients.
- See a dermatologist if dandruff persists or becomes severe, so they can check for seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, scalp fungal infections or eczema.
Anti-dandruff shampoos to consider
Check the label for the active ingredient, because that tells you how a shampoo works.
Selsun Blue Moisturizing Antidandruff Shampoo / Selenium Sulfide 1% – 11oz/325ml Buy now
A maximum-strength antidandruff shampoo with 1% selenium sulfide and aloe, listed as relieving itching and flaking while moisturizing. Selenium sulfide is one of the active ingredients the AAD lists.
Garnier Fructis Dry Scalp Anti-Dandruff Shampoo – 25.4oz/750ml Buy now
A 750ml anti-dandruff shampoo from Garnier Fructis, listed as relieving a dry, flaky, itchy scalp while leaving hair soft. Check the pack for the active ingredient and directions.
Browse the wider hair shampoo and conditioner range for more.
Soothing scalp care between washes
A scalp serum or treatment can support dandruff care, particularly for itchiness and dryness. Use it on a clean, damp or dry scalp as directed, and patch test first.
Thank God it’s Natural Tea Tree + Olive Oil Detoxifying Hair & Scalp Serum – 120ml Buy now
A 120ml detoxifying scalp serum with tea tree and olive oil, listed as reducing itching and dandruff and soothing scalp inflammation.
If you also struggle with oiliness or buildup from styling products, a clarifying shampoo can help reset the scalp now and then.
Avyo Purifying Charcoal Shampoo 296ml Buy now
A detoxifying charcoal shampoo, listed as removing deep-seated impurities and excess oil for a clean scalp. Use it occasionally as a clarifier, and follow with a conditioner on your lengths.
Explore more in our hair treatments category.
Step-by-step: using dandruff shampoo on natural hair
If your hair is coily or curly, you may not want to wash it as often as straight hair. This routine keeps the scalp treated without drying out your strands.
- Section your hair. Part it into four or more sections so you can reach the scalp.
- Apply shampoo to the scalp only. Use fingertips, not nails, to massage gently. Do not scrub.
- Leave it on for the time stated on the label, often a few minutes.
- Rinse thoroughly. Leftover shampoo can irritate.
- Condition the lengths and ends. Apply a moisturizing conditioner from mid-length to ends. Our natural hair wash day routine and deep conditioning guide give a full routine.
- Moisturize and seal as usual. Avoid heavy oils directly on a flaky scalp, because they can cause buildup and may worsen flaking in some people.
Habits that help
- Wash regularly enough. Oil and flakes build up if you wash too rarely. Weekly washing is common for natural hair, but you may need more if your scalp is oily or itchy.
- Avoid scratching. Nails can break the skin and cause infection.
- Rinse products out fully. Residue from gels and conditioners can irritate the scalp.
- Be careful with heavy hair products on the scalp. See our guides to hair oils and styling gels for how to apply them without buildup.
- Manage stress and sleep. Flares can worsen when you are stressed or tired.
- Watch for protective style buildup. Wash scalp and braids regularly with diluted shampoo or a scalp cleanser. Learn how to avoid damage in our guide on reducing hair breakage.
- Rotate or change shampoos if one stops working.
What not to do
- Don’t pick or peel flakes. It irritates the scalp.
- Don’t apply harsh home remedies such as lime juice, vinegar undiluted, bleach or strong chemicals. They can burn the scalp and cause hair loss.
- Don’t use dandruff shampoo on a scalp that is cut or very inflamed without advice.
- Don’t ignore hair loss. If you notice thinning or bald patches, see a dermatologist.
When to see a dermatologist
See a dermatologist if your scalp is very red, sore, oozing or crusted; if you have patches of hair loss; if flakes are thick and silvery (possible psoriasis); if you’ve used an anti-dandruff shampoo properly for four weeks without improvement; or if dandruff keeps returning. A doctor may prescribe stronger shampoos, lotions or treatments.
Frequently asked questions
Is dandruff contagious?
No. It is not caused by an infection you can catch from others.
Does dandruff cause hair loss?
Dandruff itself does not usually cause hair loss, but scratching hard or irritation can damage hair and scalp. See a doctor if you notice thinning.
Can I use dandruff shampoo every day?
Only if the label allows and your scalp tolerates it. The AAD suggests twice a week for fine or oily hair and about once a week for coily hair.
Is dandruff worse in harmattan?
It can be. Dry air can worsen flaking and itching. Our harmattan skincare guide offers ways to protect skin and hair in the dry season.
Is dandruff shampoo safe for coloured hair?
Some shampoos can fade colour. Check the label, apply to the scalp only and ask your stylist if unsure.
Final thoughts
Dandruff is common, manageable and nothing to be ashamed of. Choose a shampoo with a proven active ingredient, use it as directed for your hair type, condition your lengths and see a doctor if it persists.
Ready to treat your scalp? Browse Reginah’s hair shampoo and conditioner and hair treatments collections.
