Colour is one of the quickest ways to change your look, and home hair dye saves time and money. It can also go wrong: allergic reactions, uneven colour, damaged hair and brassy results are all common when people skip steps. Most problems are avoidable if you prepare properly.
This guide covers the safety basics, how to choose between a temporary touch-up and permanent colour, how to apply colour at home, and how to look after coloured hair.
Safety first: always patch test
The US Food and Drug Administration advises doing a patch test on your skin every time before dyeing your hair, following the product’s own instructions. That includes products you have used before: sensitivities can develop over time, and formulations can change. A negative result does not guarantee you will not react, so watch for symptoms during and after use.
The FDA also notes that some coal-tar hair dyes can cause allergic reactions or sensitization that may result in skin irritation and hair loss, and that paraphenylenediamine (PPD) is the ingredient most often implicated. Never dye eyebrows or eyelashes with hair dye; the FDA warns that doing so may cause blindness and that no colour additives are approved for dyeing them.
A few more rules:
- Follow all label directions, including the time to leave colour on.
- Do not leave it on longer than directed.
- Rinse your scalp thoroughly afterwards.
- Wear gloves and work in a ventilated space.
- Do not mix products unless the manufacturer says so.
- Stop immediately and rinse if you feel burning, itching or swelling. Seek medical help for severe reactions, such as swelling of the face or difficulty breathing.
Our guide to sensitive skin explains the general principle of patch testing, which applies to hair colour as well.
Temporary or permanent?
Temporary touch-ups for gray roots
If you only want to cover a few grays or hide regrowth between salon visits, a wash-out root touch-up is the lowest-commitment option. It coats the hair rather than changing it, so it washes out with shampoo.
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A root touch-up stick in dark brown, listed as providing 24-hour coverage for gray hair that washes out with your next shampoo.
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A mess-free touch-up stick in medium brown for instant coverage of gray hair and roots, according to its listing.
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An auburn instant root touch-up in a portable applicator, listed as camouflaging gray hair and washing out with shampoo.
These are practical for events, travel and quick fixes. Choose a shade close to your natural root colour.
Permanent colour
Permanent colour changes the hair structure so the colour lasts until the hair grows out. It usually involves a colour product and a developer, and in some cases lightening. It gives more dramatic and longer-lasting results but also carries a higher risk of damage and reaction.
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A 60ml professional permanent hair colour in 6N Dark Blonde, listed as offering 100% gray coverage and long-lasting results. Professional colours need the right developer and mixing, so follow the manufacturer’s instructions or ask a stylist.
Browse the full hair colour and bleach and hair dye ranges.
Before you colour
- Check your hair’s condition. Very dry, damaged or recently relaxed hair is more fragile. Deep condition for a couple of weeks first. See our guide to deep conditioning.
- Do one chemical service at a time. The American Academy of Dermatology advises doing one chemical service at a time, or perming or relaxing two weeks before colouring, and spacing touch-ups far apart.
- Do the patch test. Allow the time the instructions specify.
- Read the instructions fully. Brands differ in mixing ratios and timing.
- Protect your skin and clothes. Apply a barrier such as petroleum jelly along your hairline and wear an old shirt.
- Do not wash your hair right before unless the instructions say so.
How to apply colour at home
- Section your hair into four parts.
- Put on gloves and mix the colour as directed.
- Apply to roots first if you are covering regrowth, then bring through the lengths for the last few minutes if the instructions say so.
- Work in small sections so every strand is covered.
- Set a timer and do not exceed the stated time.
- Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water until the water runs clear.
- Use the conditioner or treatment in the pack.
If your hair is dark and you want a much lighter shade, consider going to a professional. Lightening carries a high risk of breakage and uneven colour.
Aftercare for coloured hair
- Condition every wash. Colour dries hair. Use a moisturizing conditioner and deep condition weekly or fortnightly. See our hair breakage guide for the routine.
- Wash less often and with lukewarm water. Hot water fades colour faster.
- Use gentle shampoo. Some dandruff shampoos can strip colour. Check labels, or see our guide to treating dandruff for the right approach.
- Limit heat. Use the lowest setting and a heat protectant. The AAD says to use heat tools about once a week or less.
- Protect from the sun. The AAD suggests a leave-in with zinc oxide or a wide-brimmed hat.
- Seal with oil. A light oil on the ends adds shine. See our hair oil guide.
- Space out touch-ups. The AAD suggests 8 to 10 weeks or longer between touch-ups, especially in dry weather.
Common mistakes
- Skipping the patch test. The most common and most dangerous.
- Leaving colour on too long. More time does not mean more colour; it means more damage.
- Choosing a shade that is too far from your base. Go no more than two shades lighter or darker if you are new to home colour.
- Colouring over a relaxer without waiting. Wait for the recommended period or follow a stylist’s advice.
- Overlapping colour on previously coloured lengths. It can cause banding and damage. Apply to roots only.
- Using the wrong developer. Developer strength affects lift and damage. Use the strength recommended for your product.
When to see a professional or doctor
Go to a stylist for dramatic colour changes, bleaching dark hair or correcting a colour mistake. See a doctor if you have scalp burns, swelling, blistering, persistent itching or hair loss after colouring. If you have a history of reactions to hair dye or PPD allergy, ask a dermatologist about patch testing.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to patch test every time?
Yes. The FDA advises a patch test every time before dyeing, because sensitivity can develop over time.
Is temporary colour safer than permanent?
Temporary products generally involve less chemical change to the hair, but you should still check the label and patch test.
How long should I wait between colouring sessions?
The AAD suggests spacing touch-ups out, such as 8 to 10 weeks or longer. Avoid overlapping colour on previously coloured lengths.
Can I colour my hair if it is relaxed?
Many people do, but not at the same time. The AAD suggests perming or relaxing at least two weeks before colouring, and asking a stylist if unsure.
Can I dye my eyebrows with hair dye?
No. The FDA warns that using hair dye on eyebrows or eyelashes may cause blindness.
Final thoughts
Home hair colour can be safe, affordable and satisfying when you patch test, follow directions, choose the right product and look after your hair afterwards. For big changes, bleach or colour correction, see a professional.
Ready to try? Explore Reginah’s hair colour and bleach and hair dye collections.
